Ascoli Piceno and the Caffè Meletti

If I were pressed to name the most beautiful square in Le Marche, I'd no doubt say the Piazza del Popolo in Ascoli Piceno. And I'd give the same answer if I were asked to name the most "delicious" square.


Coming in a close second on both counts is the Piazza Arringo, also located in Ascoli.

Ascoli is a pleasant 90-minute drive from Ancona. Take the A14 south, exit at the seaside town of San Benedetto del Tronto, and follow the signs for Ascoli. You will be taken to the Via Salaria, named after the Roman road connecting San Benedetto with Rome. The name "salaria" comes from the road's ancient use as a route for transporting loads of salt, which was used to pay workers' "salaries". Winding through the Tronto River valley, where you can see towns and castles on the hilltops on both sides, the Via Salaria brings you to Ascoli in about 20 minutes. Exit at Porta Cartaria and then turn right, where you will find very reasonable on-street parking a short five-minute walk from the Piazza Arringo, your first stop.



Beautiful though the Piazza del Popolo may be, the Piazza Arringo has its own fascinating features. It is striking for its perfectly rectangular shape. Here you will find the Duomo and the Palazzo Comunale, formerly known as the Palazzo Arringo (the "Arringo" was the public meeting or assembly, the derivation of the word "arringa", or "harangue"). One side of the square features a string of pretty shops. With the liberal use of grey brick throughout the square, this Piazza exudes a sense of romantic melancholy.

In one corner of the Piazza Arringo you will find Migliori, the renown purveyor of stuffed olives, known as "olive all'ascolana". Over the last several years, Migliori has become a fixture at weekly markets and fairs throughout Le Marche and also at national events, making this shop synonymous with olive all'ascolana. Migliori also sells other local specialities, such as fried cream and fritto misto all'ascolana, as well as regional wines.



A short walk from the Piazza Arringo is the Piazza del Popolo. Upon entering the square, you will notice the dominant influence of the Middle Ages. But as you scan the square and spot Caffé Meletti in the corner, you will be surprised by the Belle Epoque construction.



Indeed, Piazza del Popolo is somewhat of a jumble of different styles that merge harmoniously with each other: the Chiesa di San Francesco, the Palazzo dei Capitani del Popolo, the 16th-century porticoes, and the Liberty style of Caffé Meletti. This mix is probably attributable to the fact that the Piazza del Popolo has always formed the very centre of the city. In ancient Roman times, it was the site of the forum, and ever since, it has remained Ascoli?s political and the economic heart. In fact, the square's use as the main marketplace led to the creation of the porticoes.

As the story goes, they were an aesthetic device thought up by Raniero de' Ranieri in 1507 to tidy up the square, whose beauty was being ruined by an assortment of unsightly hovels and stores.



After taking in the square, stop by Caffé Meletti for a coffee... well, actually, not a normal coffee. Meletti is famous both for its coffee and its "anisetta", an anise liqueur. Get both at once by ordering a "caffé corretto all'anisetta Meletti". Its warmth will remain with you as you leave the Piazza del Popolo to stroll around the city centre. Take time to visit the theatre. Enjoy the vistas of this lovely town, with its many bridges and the towers. You won't soon forget the enchanting beauty of Ascoli Piceno.